Tuesday, August 08, 2006

An Afternoon Drive Thru Hyderabad


After my autorickshaw adventure, I decided I should probably consult a local before venturing out again on Sunday. Lucky for me, I have an old work friend from Hyderabad who offered to take me to brunch and show me around town. This was a much more pleasant experience.

After a nice brunch at Fusion 9, a popular spot among the local elite and expat community, we drove off into the old city, where Anoop pointed out various buildings and gave me the history of the city. Hyderabad has attracted a huge influx of people from all over India, but Anoop is a native. As a native, he's proud of the city's history and made sure I saw at least a few of the old buildings which dot the older part of the city. We drove around the Charminar (pictured above) and around the markets that surround it. It was crowded but apparently is worse on other days. They've talked of making the area a pedestrian zone, but its unlikely that will happen. It is in this neighborhood I saw what is fairly common in India: a posse of cows just walking down the street, oblivious to traffic. I'd seen a cow and calf earlier in the day, but they weren't free range cows. I can only imagine how many people crash cars and two wheelers trying to avoid the bovines.

Also visited one of the former palaces of the last ruler of Hyderabad. This region was ruled by a series of kings called the Nizams. Nizam VII ruled the area until Indian Independence in 1947 and he was responsible for many building projects throughout the city and region. At one time he was one of the richest men in the entire world - they say in current dollars, richer than the Sultan of Brunei (and that guy is loaded). He was forced off the throne by the Indian Army (he wanted to join Pakistan or stay independent) and lived the rest of his life in Hyderabad.

Here is the former palace. It's now a museum named after Nizam the VII. From the outside it looks like it's going to fall down. Part of it houses the museum, the rest is a college. Apparently the Nizam's granddaughter still lives on the property but is a recluse. No pics of the inside because they want to charge me 50 rupees PER picture. No thanks! We were also the only visitors there, so I'm sure my money would have helped a bit.

Nizam VII had invested heavily in infrastructure and education - the infrastructure which still supplies Hyderabad with water, and the education system which is driving the current economic growth. I'm sure he'd be proud of the current economic boom ripping through his former kingdom.

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